Hey there, foodies!
If you have ever seen me travel with my sisters, you'll wonder how these small asian gals can stomach eating everything and anything in sight at every street corner or restaurant they pass. I love experiencing a country's culture through their food. And let me tell you, the food scene in Cartagena is incredible! From fritos found on the streets, local no-frills eateries to seven course fine dining experiences, there's something for everyone. Here's what I like to call a grub guide of what and where I ate within the walled city of this vibrant coastal town.
Street Food
When in Cartagena, you can't miss trying out the street food!
Fritos
Fritos - meaning fried - are popular street food items you'll most likely find from a lovely local, offering various fried pastries like empanadas and dedos/palitos de queso from a street cart. Empanadas come with cheese, meats and other fillings depending on what they have. Dedos (fingers) or palitos de queso are fried pastries filled with cheese that are perfect for a quick and tasty snack. On my last day I came across a cart, frying up the tastiest fried cheesy dough and til this day wished I went back for seconds. And don't forget to wash it all down with some fresh squeezed juice from a cart you'll find at the next street corner!
Now, let's not forget one of the most popular street food - arepa con huevo! It's a savory corn cake stuffed with an egg fried to perfection - choose to have it served con carne (with meat) or not. But, DO NOT forget to squeeze a generous amount of the tangy red sauce that's offered - trust me, you'll love it! Where is the best spot to try this you might ask? If you ask locals where the best spot is for this (which was my case), they'll tell you there's only one cart for it - head down towards Plaza San Diego, where you'l find a few ladies frying up some fresh arepas with people crowding them.
Meat skewers
As a coastal town, you'll find dishes flooded with seafood of sorts. But if you're like me, after a few days of strictly having food from the sea, these meat skewers will satisfy your meat cravings. Options vary from beef, chicken, sausage, and a mix of sorts - all grilled to perfection and incredibly flavorful.
These skewers are even more satisfying after a night of salsa dancing to live bands at the ever so famous and popular salsa club, Havana Cafe in Getsemani. All you have to do is follow the smell of barbecue and cross the street where you'll find a green cart grilling up these skewers to your liking.
Pastries/Baked Goods
Cartagena is a paradise for pastry lovers! There are three things I ALWAYS do when visiting a new town - one of them is finding the best baked goods and pastries and this colorful town did not disappoint. La Esquina del Pandebono, one of the most popular bakeries, can be found on a street corner with a welcoming indoor-outdoor environment offering a variety of baked goods - one of them being pandebono, like its name. Pandebono is a sweet and savory cheesy bread roll - a Colombian cuisine staple! You can also find other various savory pastries and sweet treats while you're there.
Another great spot is El Pandequeso. While not as popular, but filled with locals, this bakery will not disappoint. This was not on my radar, but smelling the delicious aroma of fresh baked goods from across the street is truly irresistible. I must say I'm glad I stumbled upon this bakery and will for sure be returning the next time I'm back in Cartagena!
From the Sea
Being a coastal city, Cartagena is known for its fresh seafood. The cazuela de mariscos is a semi-creamy seafood stew made with fish, shrimp, squid, and other seafood, served with coconut rice on. the side. It was full of flavor, felt like home and absolutely delicious! Head to Atahluapa, a local restaurant across from Plaza San Diego for this delectable dish for lunch.
For a relaxing, away-from-the-crowds al fresco evening, head to Terraza Municipal - an outdoor park surrounded by a few food trucks and a bar with stunning views of the water. The camarones ajillo from there is another must-try dish. It's shrimp cooked in a garlic and olive oil will make your taste buds dance - it's packed with flavor and cooked to perfection (not under nor over cooked). Other options include burgers, pizzas, tacos and sushi - all readily available for order. But, be sure to grab a drink and snag a seat by the water for the best view!
If you're looking for an Instagram-worthy, plant-filled restaurant full of traditional regional cuisine with live entertainment, then head to Restaurante Candé. This restaurant was highly recommended by an employee of a coffee shop down the street - and it lived up the hype. I ordered the arroz anfitrion - a cheesy, creamy seafood rice casserole baked to perfection and topped with a langostino. As someone who craves any Asian food after three days of going without, this dish hit the spot and was reminiscent of the creamy baked casserole dish I would order at any Hong Kong style cafe. However, I'd pass on the ceviche con coco, though. While pretty and photogenic - the tartness overpowered the sweetness of the seafood, making for an imbalanced experience. Overall, a solid lunch and dinner spot, either alone, on a date, or with a group of friends!
While there is no one-specific restaurant to head to for this dish, a whole fried fish with coconut rice on the side is a MUST. Squeeze a bit of lime and go to town with it. There's no graceful way of eating this if you want to get all parts of the meat, so go all in with your hands! It is so simple, yet so delicious - this is what happens when there's an abundance of fresh seafood! If you so happen find your way to Playa Surf in Playa Blanca, order the fried fish with seafood curry on top - you will not regret it!
Other Eats
If you're looking for some heartier options, there are plenty of other great eats in Cartagena. The sancocho de mondongo from Restaurante Coroncoro was the perfect meal to satisfy every craving I had. This is a traditional soup made with beef tripe, potatoes, and other veggies. I originally had planned to head to this restaurant for their bandeja paisa - a platter of beans, rice, chicharron and sausage, among other things - but as a huge fan of menudo and mondongo, I could not pass up the sancocho. If you're looking for a true local gem with no-frills, this is the spot, situated at the edge of Getsemani. While most of the employees don't speak English, there is an English menu to point at when ordering.
By midweek, it was time to mix up the cuisine a bit to curb the food-homesickness. That's where Benitto Italy came in for a simple Italian meal. Or if you're looking for pizza, Pizza en El Parque at the corner of Plaza San Diego is a great option. If these aren't to your liking, another option I was deciding between, but ultimately chose not to dine at, was Trattoria donde Wippy.
Finally, saving the best for last - if you want an upscale dining experience, Carmen is the place to go! Their 7-course tasting menu with wine pairing was one of the best experiences I have ever had - from the food and wine, down to the service. They take on local dishes and give them a gourmet twist, all paired with excellent wine.
Overall, the food found in Cartagena was amazing. What was especially wonderful is the fact that there is something for everyone - from budget-eats to fine dining, from the sea to the land. If you're headed to Cartagena, I hope this post gives you some ideas on what to try and where to go when you're there.
Bon appétit!
Vickie